MountainWaz Expeditions and Adventures: 2011 Aconcagua Expedition is officially underway!

Thursday, December 30, 2010

2011 Aconcagua Expedition is officially underway!

Scott has reunited with his friend and climbing partner, Aaron Saari, to make another attempt on Mt. Aconcagua over the next couple weeks. Aaron and Scott summited Denali (Mt. McKinley), the highest point in North America, together back in 2007 on May 16, which is also Aaron's birthday. [You can read more about that expedition in the Blog Archive and more info about Aaron in the May 16, 2007 posts.]

They have a LONG travel day ahead of them today. After leaving PDX at 8:30am, they have a couple stops in the U.S. (Texas, Florida) before they land tomorrow morning in Santiago, Chile and then finally in Mendoza, Argentina at 10:30am on New Year's Eve day. Whew!

The first hurdle will be to make sure all the bags containing critical climbing gear made it safely, and the second will be to make it to the Visitor's Center in Mendoza in time to acquire their climbing permit in person for Mt. Aconcagua! (It seems not everything can be done online! The office closes early for New Year's Eve, so it's important that their flight arrives on time so the guys can get there before they close up shop.)

Scott has rented a satellite phone, and he plans to call at least every other day with a brief update. So stay tuned and hope for safe and timely travels for both the guys and their gear!

2 comments:

Unknown said...: Safe travels & happy climbing to you boys! We will be following your adventure via this blog! Thanks to those providing the update!
-Melissa (Aaron's sister); December 30, 2010 at 2:12 PM
Anonymous said...: Safe travels for sure. We hope your adventures are all they can be...We will be following your updates. Thanks..Rick and Cheryl Saari (Aaron's uncle and aunt); January 1, 2011 at 7:24 AM

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2014 Mt. Elbrus Itinerary

6/28 - Fly from Portland to Frankfurt to Moscow
6/29 - Arrive in Moscow, Russia
6/30 - Moscow
7/1 - Fly from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody
7/2 - Overnight in Mineralnye Vody
7/3 - Ascend to Garabashi Hut (12,000 ft.)
7/4 - Acclimatization Climb
7/5 - Climb to Pastukhova Rocks (15,000 ft.)
7/6 - Summit Day (18,501 ft.)
7/7 - Alternative Summit Day
7/8 - Alternative Summit Day
7/9 - Descend to Valley (7,500 ft.)
7/10 - Fly to Moscow & then to London
7/11 - Pearl Jam concert in London!
7/12 - Fly home to Portland

2012/2013 Mt. Vinson Itinerary

Dec.25 - Depart Portland
Dec.26 - Arrive in Punta Arenas, Chile
Dec.27-Gear Check/Bio-Security Check
Dec.28-Pre-flight mtg., luggage weigh-in
Dec.29-Fly to Union Glacier, Antarctica and shuttle to Vinson Base Camp (7,000 ft.)
Dec.30-Ascend to Low Camp (9,100 ft.) weather-permitting
Dec.31-Ascend to Low Camp (9,100 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.1-Ascend to Low Camp (9,100 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.2-Ascend to High Camp (13,200 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.3-Ascend to High Camp (13,200 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.4-Ascend to High Camp (13,200 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.5-Summit bid (16,050 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.6-Summit bid (16,050 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.7- Summit bid (16,050 ft.) weather-permitting
Jan.8- Descend to Vinson Base Camp
Jan.9-Return to Union Glacier Camp
Jan.10-Arrive/stay in Punta Arenas, Chile
Jan.11-Stay in Punta Arenas, Chile
Jan.12-Depart Punta Arenas, Chile
Jan. 13 -Scott arrives home in PDX

2010/2011 Mt. Aconcagua Itinerary (proposed)

Dec.30 - Depart from Portland, Oregon
Dec.31- Arrive in Mendoza (2,428 ft.) and buy climbing permit
Jan.1- Purchase supplies (food, fuel) in Mendoza; shuttle to Penitentes (8,500 ft.) near Los Puquios
Jan.2- Trek Vacas Valley to Pampas de Lenas (9,200 ft.)
Jan.3- Trek to Casa de Piedra (10,500 ft.)
Jan.4- Trek to Plaza Argentina Base Camp (13,800 ft.) and pick up gear that was "muled in"
Jan.5- Carry load of supplies to Camp I (15,750 ft.) and return to Base Camp (13,800 ft.)
Jan.6- Rest Day at Base Camp (13,800 ft.)
Jan.7- Climb to Camp I (15,750 ft)
Jan.8- Carry load to Camp II (18,400 ft.) and descend to Camp I to sleep
Jan.9- Rest Day at Camp I (15,750 ft.)
Jan.10- Climb to Camp II (18,400 ft.)
Jan.11- Summit bid on Mt. Aconcagua (22,841 ft.) via Polish Glacier Route (est. time 10-15 hrs)
Jan.12- Alternate Summit Day
Jan.13- Descend from Camp II to Plaza Argentina (13,800 ft.)
Jan.14- Hike 8-10 hrs from Plaza Argentina to Vacas Valley; stay in Penitentes (7,875 ft.)
Jan.15- Depart from Mendoza, Argentina
Jan.16- Arrive home safely in Portland, OR

2007 MountainWaz Denali Expedition Itinerary (actual)

May 5 - Depart Portland
May 6 - Air Taxi from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Base Camp
May 7 - Move to Camp I: 7,800 ft.
May 8 - Move to Camp II: 9,700 ft.
May 9 - Move to Camp III: 11,000 ft. / carry load to 13,500 ft.
May 10 - Move to Camp IV: 14,200 ft.
May 11 - Retrieve cache from 13,500 ft.
May 12 - Rest/acclimate at Camp IV 14,200 ft.
May 13 - Carry load to 16,200 ft. / sleep at Camp IV
May 14 - Rest at Camp IV 14,200 ft.
May 15 - Move to Camp V: 17,200 ft.
May 16 - Summit Day! Happy B-day Aaron!
May 17 - Descend to Camp IV
May 18 - Retrieve cache at 16,200 ft.
May 19 - Descend to Kahiltna Glacier - Base Camp
May 20 - Fly from Kahiltna Glacier to Talkeetna
May 21 - Meet Dana & April in Talkeetna / visit West Rib Pub
May 22 - 27: Camp, hike, sightsee with Dana
May 28 - Depart Anchorage