I talked to Scott at 3:45am (local time) as they were boiling drinking water for the trip and making final preparations to leave for the summit. They will continue climbing northbound and traverse over to join the Normal Route at 6,200 m, a point found between the Independence refuge and Camp Piedras Blancas. From there they will continue on the Normal Route up to the Independence Refuge (6,500 m). They will ascend the "Portezuelo del Viento" where there are always strong winds even on calm days. From there they will pass by the superior part of the Western face and climb "La Canaleta," a 300 m chute that borders the final approach of the climb to the summit. They will travel about an hour through the Filo del Guanaco that leads to the summit. From the Filo del Guanaco they will have an amazing view of the Southern Wall of Mt. Aconcagua, considered one of the largest walls of the world, directly under their feet.
When they reach the summit at 22,841 ft., they will have an indescribable sensation of total satisfaction that they were able to overcome the challenge and meet their goal. They will also be rewarded with a 360° view of the Andes Mountain Range and surrounding area. After sharing these emotional moments of accomplishment on the summit, they will carefully descend to Camp II.
Go for it, guys! And be safe.
Monday, January 10, 2011
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Hunkered Down at Camp II (18,400 ft.)
Scott was hoping that they would go for the summit tomorrow (Monday), but a storm started to roll in yesterday when they left Camp I and it continued today. The blustering wind and snow will keep them grounded at Camp II tomorrow where they will rest up and get organized for their summit bid, which will probably be on Tuesday if the weather clears up. The weather is supposed to improve on Monday or Tuesday, so hopefully they will be able to go for it on Tuesday.
It remains to be seen whether all this new snow will make the Polish Glacier direct route worse or better, so they will decide tomorrow whether they will traverse over the normal route to go up to the summit or straight up to the summit from their current route.
He said they are warm now that they are bundled up in the tent and tucked in their sleeping bags, but their meal tonight consisted of what we would consider to be party appetizers: cheese, sausage, crackers and olives! Since it is a blizzard outside, they can't fire up the cookstove and enjoy a hot meal.
It remains to be seen whether all this new snow will make the Polish Glacier direct route worse or better, so they will decide tomorrow whether they will traverse over the normal route to go up to the summit or straight up to the summit from their current route.
He said they are warm now that they are bundled up in the tent and tucked in their sleeping bags, but their meal tonight consisted of what we would consider to be party appetizers: cheese, sausage, crackers and olives! Since it is a blizzard outside, they can't fire up the cookstove and enjoy a hot meal.
A couple of nights ago he saw a huge lightning storm off in the distance, but he said they did not feel any effects from the 7.1-magnitude earthquake that struck southern Chile (Araucania, Chile ) and parts of neighboring Argentina. The area that was impacted is some 900 miles southwest of Mt. Aconcagua.
Scott will check in again before they go for the summit, so I will post another update then.
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Cleared for Take-off
Scott and Aaron passed their medical checks at Base Camp (13,800 ft.) and spent yesterday resting and acclimating to the elevation before they move upward on the mountain. Scott was in great spirits this evening and told me that it was a beautiful night with a great view of the summit surrounded by stars in the sky.
Today they hiked up to Camp I (15,750 ft.), where they put up a tent and cached some food and supplies. They spent a couple of hours building a "bomb-proof" tent shelter with rocks to protect it from the winds, and he said they both felt strong. On their way back down to Base Camp, Scott said that it snowed a little bit but not much. So far they have been trekking on scree (loose rock), which means that with every step forward you slip backward a few inches. [If you've ever climbed Mt. St. Helen's, then you are very familiar with hiking on scree!] Scott described the hike up to Camp I as a big slog.
Tomorrow they will pack up at Base Camp and move up to Camp I and spend the night there. Part of the acclimation process is to "climb high and sleep low" meaning that in order to help your body adjust to altitude, you sleep at a lower elevation than you have climbed to that day to allow your body to recover at a lower elevation where the air is richer in oxygen. Since they have already been up to CI today and spent the night at a lower elevation, they will be in fine shape to make it up to Camp I tomorrow and then overnight at that level.
I won't hear from Scott again until Sunday when they are at Camp II and ready to go for the summit the next day, but I will post more information tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Today they hiked up to Camp I (15,750 ft.), where they put up a tent and cached some food and supplies. They spent a couple of hours building a "bomb-proof" tent shelter with rocks to protect it from the winds, and he said they both felt strong. On their way back down to Base Camp, Scott said that it snowed a little bit but not much. So far they have been trekking on scree (loose rock), which means that with every step forward you slip backward a few inches. [If you've ever climbed Mt. St. Helen's, then you are very familiar with hiking on scree!] Scott described the hike up to Camp I as a big slog.
Tomorrow they will pack up at Base Camp and move up to Camp I and spend the night there. Part of the acclimation process is to "climb high and sleep low" meaning that in order to help your body adjust to altitude, you sleep at a lower elevation than you have climbed to that day to allow your body to recover at a lower elevation where the air is richer in oxygen. Since they have already been up to CI today and spent the night at a lower elevation, they will be in fine shape to make it up to Camp I tomorrow and then overnight at that level.
I won't hear from Scott again until Sunday when they are at Camp II and ready to go for the summit the next day, but I will post more information tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Safe Arrival at Plaza Argentina (Aconcagua Base Camp)!
After 6-7 hours of trekking today from Casa de Piedras (10,500 ft.), the guys made it safely to to Plaza Argentina (Base Camp) at 13,800 ft. They checked in with the park rangers and tomorrow they have a medical check with the Base Camp doctors. There have already been several climbers who had to be taken by mules down to lower elevations due to altitude sickness, so the doctors are being very precautious.
Scott said that he likes the Base Camp on this route much better than the one from the normal route that he took in 2008/2009. Their trek has been much more scenic, and they have a good view of the summit from here. Their 3-day trek to Base Camp took them along the edges of the Relincho Stream and to an ascent of a steep slope by the same name. This is where they were able to see the last native vegetation before climbing towards the glaciers, where Plaza Argentina is located.
It has been a really dry winter this year. In fact, Scott & Aaron stayed at a hotel in a very small ski resort in Penitentes (only 3 lifts - just a little bit bigger than Mt. Holly, according to Scott!), and they have had no snow at all there this winter.
It is extremely windy and cold – now that they have their tents set up, they are bundled up and going through their gear to plan what supplies they will cache at each camp along the way. They will be hanging out at Plaza Argentina all day tomorrow to acclimatize and make sure they are healthy and feeling strong before they move to Camp I.
Scott said they have been constantly talking about which route they are going to take – it seems the Polish Glacier is not in good shape because it’s so bare (really just rock & ice due to the lack of snow). This means they would have to set protection, so they would be much slower to summit. He said they will make the final call when they get to Camp II. They could traverse over and pick up the normal route once they are at 21,000 ft. and then head for the summit from there. It would be 1.5-2 hr traverse on rock, so it would be high altitude trekking rather than a technical route.
Scott also said they have met some nice Canadians (are there any other kind?) along the way, though their group is disbursing as some of them have had health issues. However, there are two (a guide and his client) from their group left at Plaza Argentina.
So for tomorrow they will enjoy their great view of the summit – windblown and massive as it is - and they are hoping the weather will clear up when they start climbing again on Thursday. Scott said that yesterday was a bluebird day, so hopefully they will have similar weather for their summit bid.
The dry cold air has been a little rough on his throat, so they are trying to keep drinking hot water. Otherwise, they are feeling strong.
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Gentlemen, Meet your Mules
That's right. While you are checking this update from your smart phone, iPad, or "old-fashioned" MacBook or PC, Scott & Aaron are hiking along with their gear piled onto the backs of mules as they have begun their 3-day trek to Base Camp of Mt. Aconcagua.
Scott was relieved to find out that they are able to trek along with their mules and muleteers (human guides/caretakers for the animals) up to Base Camp since the last time he climbed on this mountain, the mules and his gear took a different route than he did. This time they don't have to be concerned about the gear's safe delivery and they can also get into their packs whenever they need something rather than carefully planning out what might be required for this specific portion of the journey.
After a night in Penitentes, they were transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park. They took a shuttle to Punta de Vacas, where the muleteers loaded the equipment on the mules and from there they hike to Base Camp, which takes three days. Today they trekked 4-5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2950 m/9,200 ft.) where they presented permits to the park rangers, reunited with their equipment and set up the tents. Everything is going very smoothly so far, and everyone is feeling great and in good spirits. Hee haw!
Scott was relieved to find out that they are able to trek along with their mules and muleteers (human guides/caretakers for the animals) up to Base Camp since the last time he climbed on this mountain, the mules and his gear took a different route than he did. This time they don't have to be concerned about the gear's safe delivery and they can also get into their packs whenever they need something rather than carefully planning out what might be required for this specific portion of the journey.
After a night in Penitentes, they were transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park. They took a shuttle to Punta de Vacas, where the muleteers loaded the equipment on the mules and from there they hike to Base Camp, which takes three days. Today they trekked 4-5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2950 m/9,200 ft.) where they presented permits to the park rangers, reunited with their equipment and set up the tents. Everything is going very smoothly so far, and everyone is feeling great and in good spirits. Hee haw!
Friday, December 31, 2010
Happy New Year from Mendoza, Argentina!
Since they are 5 hours ahead of us (Pacific Time), Scott & Aaron have already welcomed in the new year and have nodded off to sleep some time ago. They are staying in a hostel in Mendoza, where they celebrated an Argentinian-style BBQ with their fellow travelers.
I'm happy to report that they made it safely to Argentina, as did all of their luggage, and they successfully obtained their climbing permits, so they are ready to roll. They also did all their shopping (food and fuel for the stoves) this afternoon.
Tomorrow morning at 11am, they leave for Los Penitentes as planned. It will be a 3-4 hour journey and they will spend the night there on Saturday night.
Happy New Year!
I'm happy to report that they made it safely to Argentina, as did all of their luggage, and they successfully obtained their climbing permits, so they are ready to roll. They also did all their shopping (food and fuel for the stoves) this afternoon.
Tomorrow morning at 11am, they leave for Los Penitentes as planned. It will be a 3-4 hour journey and they will spend the night there on Saturday night.
Happy New Year!
Thursday, December 30, 2010
2011 Aconcagua Expedition is officially underway!
Scott has reunited with his friend and climbing partner, Aaron Saari, to make another attempt on Mt. Aconcagua over the next couple weeks. Aaron and Scott summited Denali (Mt. McKinley), the highest point in North America, together back in 2007 on May 16, which is also Aaron's birthday. [You can read more about that expedition in the Blog Archive and more info about Aaron in the May 16, 2007 posts.]
They have a LONG travel day ahead of them today. After leaving PDX at 8:30am, they have a couple stops in the U.S. (Texas, Florida) before they land tomorrow morning in Santiago, Chile and then finally in Mendoza, Argentina at 10:30am on New Year's Eve day. Whew!
The first hurdle will be to make sure all the bags containing critical climbing gear made it safely, and the second will be to make it to the Visitor's Center in Mendoza in time to acquire their climbing permit in person for Mt. Aconcagua! (It seems not everything can be done online! The office closes early for New Year's Eve, so it's important that their flight arrives on time so the guys can get there before they close up shop.)
Scott has rented a satellite phone, and he plans to call at least every other day with a brief update. So stay tuned and hope for safe and timely travels for both the guys and their gear!
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